The Beer Road

I’m just not that interested in the shirt.  This is surprising, even to me, as it would seem right up my alley.  Anyone who sees me on a regular basis will likely tell you that my closet seems to have plenty of beer and beer establishment related propaganda, screen printed on various colors of 50/50 cotton blend.  But the embroidered, bowling style shirt that Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint, Roanoke’s newest spot to check out craft beer, awards its regulars who, over time, drink 100 beers, just hasn’t enticed me to start recording the brews I’ve had there.  At least not yet.  At first, oddly enough, I wasn’t even interested in visiting Jack Brown’s for the beer.

Maybe it was because I was simply missing Ernie’s, the longtime downtown restaurant whose spot Jack Brown’s now occupies.  Not that Jack Brown’s had anything to do with the closing of Ernie’s, of course, although I’d like to point out that I’m still on the hunt for a good potato cake for breakfast.  My skepticism was likely based upon hearing that Jack Brown’s beer list, as lengthy as I heard it would be – over 100 in all – was almost entirely bottle based.  Now, there’s nothing necessarily wrong with a good bottle beer selection, as long as what’s under the cap is fresh.  What I immediately envisioned from the Harrisonburg based company’s new location was an extremely static list.  Every visit would mean staring at the same assortment of beers, and let’s face it, after you’ve been a craft beer lover for a time, it becomes an unfortunate ritual when looking at many a beer list – had it, had it, had it, had it.  And while you might have favorites among those listed, and although those beers are surely worth revisiting from time to time, most craft fans are constantly on the search for something that they haven’t had.  It’s one of the most mind blowing and interesting facets of the American craft beer scene.  New beers fly out of bright tanks faster than you can keep up with these days, at such a rate to make one wonder if “flagship” will someday become an outdated term.

But when it comes to Jack Brown’s and their beer selection, luckily, I now know better.  I stopped in for the first time on a busy Saturday night, and yes, I think I made some crack about them seeing if they can make me a potato cake.  But after entering, Jack Brown’s had stolen my attention away from any thought of potato cakes, and more importantly, any possible disappointment of a static beer list.  Sure, there’s a printed beer list which likely will stay very much the same.  To its credit however, it boasts a widely varied selection.  There are something along the lines of 120 beers on it, from crafts to imports, from Tripels to Double IPAs, Porters to Imperial Reds, and most everything in between.  Still, it’s entirely possible to have covered many of these if you’ve been a craft beer fan for a while.  So it was the other list that really captured my attention.  On one wall hangs a chalkboard, on which were written the names of as many as ten or more beers, from seasonals to one-off releases, including several 22oz bottles perfect for sharing.  Not long after the first visit, Bear Republic’s Black IPA Black Racer was written in.  Recently, four different Belgian ales from Het Anker Brewery showed up, and on another visit, a Mikkeller IPA.  As it turns out, the chalkboard not only fits the extremely casual, low key, ‘bar hidden inside of a country shed feel’, but it’s practical as well, as the beers listed on it change quite often.  Occasionally, it seems that new bottle offerings make it into the coolers before they make it onto the board too – I’ve learned to take a look.  There are also the taps to consider – just four in all, which is hardly record setting.  But Jack Brown’s, like so many craft beer spots that clearly know that adaptability to changing tastes and the constant desire for craft beer fans to try something different from one beer to the next is of the highest importance, employ only small kegs, to give the beers a chance to change over quickly.  In any given week, you’re likely to find a completely different assortment of brews from Monday to Friday, and possibly another in between.  One example came just a couple weeks after opening, when the downtown spot held two different brewery tap takeovers just a couple days apart from each other.

The result of this unexpected commitment to varying their selection has been, well, several unexpected opportunities to try new beer.  Any anxious thoughts about an unchanging, static beer list have given way to evenings such as my fiancé and I had recently when we split that bottle of Black Racer, an excellent IPA of any kind, black or otherwise, or the night we shared the high abv Mikkeller IPA.  What more could most any craft beer fan want, after all, than the chance to try something new, especially when those chances come fairly often, as they do at Jack Brown’s.  For certain, the new downtown restaurant is a welcome addition to Roanoke’s growing list of places to check out craft beer.  As for the shirt, I’m contemplating recording my beers on my next visit – I wonder if I can play catch up.

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In honor of American Craft Beer Week, the blog’s posts over the last few days have focused on what seems appropriate during this kind of celebration, to both look back on a few of the great beers and breweries that got us to a point where such a week is possible, and also to look forward to newcomers who have recently arrived and will surely continue to foster American craft beer enthusiasm.  The posts have admittedly been a little biased towards Virginia craft beer, and why not, considering the growing number of breweries and interest here in my own state.

Today, the focus is on a brewery that both enables Virginia craft beer lovers to take a look back and forward, all at the same time.  Some time back, I wrote a post some about some of Roanoke’s beer related history, including some information on the Virginia Brewing Company (VBC) which was based here.  (You can take a look at that post HERE.)  I also mentioned The Robert Portner Brewing Company, which was based in Alexandria, Virginia.  Here’s a paragraph from that post:

“One name that often pops up in Roanoke beer lore is that of Robert Portner.  In the late 19^th century, Portner’s Brewing Company, based in Alexandria, became one of the south’s largest breweries and in 1885, the company began operating a depot in Roanoke, for their beer to be shipped to and bottled.  The depot was located along Shenandoah Avenue just a few blocks behind the Hotel Roanoke.  While Portner’s beers were widely distributed – shipments reached into Georgia at one point – it was Portner’s innovations that often gained recognition.  In the 1880’s, brewers began to use some of the first artificial refrigeration machines and air conditioning units to help regulate beer temperatures during production and for the storage of lager beer.  There were many designs of the devices, with varying degrees of success, but it was a design that Portner made his own modifications to that apparently became one of the more efficient ones used by any brewery at the time.”  (Please see the original post for all documentation.)

It’s easy to see why The Robert Portner Brewing Company deservingly occupies a large portion of Virginia beer history.  Very interestingly enough, that brewery’s legacy will soon be rewritten.  Just a few blocks from the original Robert Portner Brewing location, great great granddaughters Catherine and Margaret Portner are well into the planning of and fund raising for “The Portner Brewhouse”, which proudly references its history in its logo: “Est. 1869/Re-Established 2012”.  The brewery will feature several beers, including ones which the Portners have been attempting to recreate from the company’s original recipes.  Roanoke’s own Will Landry, former President of the Star City Brewer’s Guild, traveled to Alexandria to assist in the research and design of those very recipes.  Included in them is an attempt to recreate the Pilsner for which the Robert Portner Brewing Company was most known for.

In addition to the brewery, the plans also include a German American style restaurant as well as a “craft beer test kitchen”.  According to the Brewhouse website, the craft beer test kitchen is available for any interested home brewer, regardless of experience, to submit their recipes for evaluation to the Brewhouse’s head brewer.   If selected, the home brewer will then enjoy a day of brewing on the company’s equipment, with the beer to served at the restaurant’s bar for patrons to taste test (and grade), giving the home brewer the kind of research only an experience such as the test kitchen could provide.

As with so very many things with beer, what’s old is new again.  A rich legacy of brewing in Virginia will be soon brought back, as the Portner Brewhouse website puts it, “to the forefront of the Virginia craft beer renaissance!”

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American Craft Beer Week 2013 rolls on in Roanoke – below is a look at a couple things that are left as we get into the weekend.  Please also take a look at today’s full length post on a reborn Virginia brewery directly below this post.

Tonight, yet another Virginia brewery will be featured at Blue 5 Restaurant downtown, and on the schedule will likely be Nelson County’s Wild Wolf Brewing.  Tomorrow, the restaurant will feature the area’s newest brewery, Sunken City.  Also, at tonight’s First Friday’s on Franklin you’ll be able to find several beers from Virginia breweries, likely including Starr Hill, Devils Backbone, Sunken City, Bold Rock Ciders, and Apocalypse Ale Works.  Get outside, enjoy some live music, and celebrate with some Virginia craft beer!  The full listing of this week’s events can be found on the May 15th post, and remember, many spots which featured beers earlier in the week will likely still have some left – meaning there should be plenty of great beer to get out and taste this weekend in Roanoke!

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American Craft Beer Week, which officially began Monday, both celebrates the current culture surrounding craft beer in the country as well as commemorates it.  As with any event such as this, it is a chance to live in the moment as well as reflect on the past.  While many will celebrate this week with their attention fully wrapped around the former, whether by visiting the latest brewery to open in one’s area, or maybe by trying that newest release they’ve been on the edge of their seat for, personally, I always seem to have a soft spot for the latter, in the a spirit of reflection.  After all, most anyone will agree that it’s important to look back occasionally, no matter what the circumstances, to honor the choices you’ve made – the ones that worked out at least – and to revel a little in the soft, warm glow of nostalgia.  (And if that doesn’t work, you can revel in the glow that a nice tripel often has when you hold it up to a light.  Am I the only one that gets lost in that kind of stuff?)  Nevertheless, I also enjoy the latest brewery news and releases as much as anyone.  So, it is with a little reflection that I take a look at a couple beers that helped get us to where we are today and also call out a couple recent releases that are pushing us into the future – and by “us” I mean that we’re keeping focus squarely within the borders of the Commonwealth.  I’d say there’s plenty going on right here in Virginia to celebrate, and commemorate, American Craft Beer Week.

Looking back:  St. George Brewing Company’s Porter

American vs. English Porters, Stouts vs. Porters, we’re beyond these discussions, right?  Other than the origins of the individual ingredients that go into the beer, and a history lesson or two which are worth maybe a footnote these days, can’t we just move on to the beer?  Beyond the obvious – dark brown, often nearly black beers that are perhaps more complex than a brown but not as roasted as the average stout, Porters versions can be complex, malty (and possibly well hopped) experiences, and the best encourage one to (very) slowly sip and enjoy each sip thoroughly.  We’re lucky to have several in the state of Virginia, but one absolute standout for many years has been St. George’s (Hampton, VA) Porter.  An extremely smooth, medium like body delivers several delicious flavors that appear, vanish, and reappear like ghosts on your tongue.  Included are faint tastes of smoke, slightly charred wood, wisps of ash or charcoal, dark chocolate, and perhaps vague dark fruit.  All of these make for a somewhat rich, and certainly delicious, but very drinkable beer.  Of course, it is still very much a favorite to this day.

Looking forward:   Champion Brewing’s Missile IPA

From my hometown of Roanoke, the Charlottesville/Nelson County area is an easy, less than two hour craft beer destination.  With breweries that include Blue Mountain, Devils Backbone, South Street, Starr Hill, Bold Rock Ciders, and Wild Wolf, and stores such as Beer Run, the area has already become a hotbed of Virginia craft beer activity.  Enter newcomers such as Treehaus Brewing and Champion Brewing, and in a few months, the area will simply be even more of a spot to spend a night or two exploring the options.  One of those two new breweries, Champion, has been earning some favorable reviews online, with such beers as their Berliner Weisse and their Missile IPA.  Comments on the IPA not only point out plenty of orange and grapefruit flavors, with a firm malt sturdyness, but also ample bitterness, likening it to more of a west coast IPA.

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There’s always so much to look forward to when the week hits Wednesday.  Usually it means, for most people, the end of the work week can be seen from here.  But here’s another reason to feel a little more excited, especially if you’re one of the many craft beer curious folks in and around Roanoke.  Today also means that the events being held in the Star City for American Craft Beer Week only ramp up from here.  Last night gave us all a taste of what’s to come.  Here’s a recap, and a look ahead:

Local Roots Restaurant held their Devils Backbone (VA) event, featuring a wood aged version of the brewery’s Kilt Flasher, their Scotch Ale on Tuesday night.  They also had plenty of their Striped Bass pale ale on hand, sales of which benefits the Chesapeake Bay Foundation.

It looks like the beer is beginning to flow from the newly installed 40 tap system at Mac N’ Bob’s Restaurant in Salem.  According to staff at the restaurant, things should be running on all cylinders by the weekend.  Of note on draft is Starr Hill’s (VA) new seasonal Grateful Pale Ale.  The tap system by far offers the largest selection of craft beer in one place in Salem, and considering Mac N’ Bob’s was a favorite haunt of mine during my college days, I’ll definitely be back over there to check it out soon.

Blue 5 Restaurant kicked things off Monday night with two ciders that were created out of a collaborative effort between Fox Barrel and Crispin.  What’s most interesting is that they were both inspired by the cult classic movie The Princess Bride.  Titled “As You Wish”, and “Prepare To Die”, both should be still available to taste.  Last night, the downtown restaurant featured Blue Mountain Brewery for Craft Beer Week, putting on tap a Weizenbock (dark wheat beer) called Summer Haze that you normally would only be able to get if you traveled to the Charlottesville area.

LOOKING FORWARD:

Wednesday – Local Roots is hosting their special three course dinner which they will pair with various beers from Belgium by way of Cooperstown Brewery Ommegang.  Available will be Fleur de Houblon, a tasty Belgian Pale, Three Philosophers, a Quadrupel, Rare Vos, a Belgian style amber, and Gnomegang, a darker strong ale.  Thursday night the restaurant is featuring special pricing on Foothills Irish Red Ale, 20 oz servings for just $2!

Blue 5 will continue to feature Virginia based breweries the remainder of the week, and on Wednesday celebrates one located just around the corner, in Salem, Parkway Brewing.  Thursday night, expect a Devils Backbone event, Friday may see Wild Wolf featured, and then on Saturday, the Blue 5 debut of Sunken City Brewery beers, which just opened up at the Smith Mountain Lake area last week.  Each event should include at least one beer from that night’s featured brewery not normally available in our area, and likely plenty of glassware to give away, if you’re the collecting type.

Friday will also see many Virginia brews on hand at this week’s Friday’s on Franklin event in downtown Roanoke.  On hand will be beers from Sunken City, Devils Backbone, Bold Rock Ciders, Starr Hill, and Apocalypse Ale Works.

The Wine Gourmet beer and wine store is offering 10% discounts on all beer the rest of the week.  15% on case quantities.

Of course, I’m sure Parkway Brewing will be open their usual hours as we head into the weekend, Thursday, Friday and Saturday.  Check out their facebook page for any updates.

American Craft Beer Week rolls on here in Roanoke.  Have you had anything new and exciting?  If not, these events might give you just that chance!  Cheers!

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American Craft Beer Week, which officially began today, both celebrates the current culture surrounding craft beer in the country as well as commemorates it.  As with any event such as this, it is a chance to live in the moment as well as reflect on the past.  While many will celebrate this week with their attention fully wrapped around the former, whether by visiting the latest brewery to open in one’s area, or maybe by trying that newest release they’ve been on the edge of their seat for, personally, I always seem to have a soft spot for the latter, in the a spirit of reflection.  After all, most anyone will agree that it’s important to look back occasionally, no matter what the circumstances, to honor the choices you’ve made – the ones that worked out at least – and to revel a little in the soft, warm glow of nostalgia.  (And if that doesn’t work, you can revel in the glow that a nice tripel often has when you hold it up to a light.  Am I the only one that gets lost in that kind of stuff?)  Nevertheless, I also enjoy the latest brewery news and releases as much as anyone.  So, it is with a little reflection that I take a look at a couple beers that helped get us to where we are today and also call out a couple recent releases that are pushing us into the future – and by “us” I mean that we’re keeping focus squarely within the borders of the Commonwealth.  I’d say there’s plenty going on right here in Virginia to celebrate, and commemorate, American Craft Beer Week.

Looking back:  Blue Mountain’s Full Nelson Pale Ale.

Back when I still couldn’t quite figure out exactly what flavors I was enjoying in beers that were “hoppy”, or at least “hoppier” than anything I had drank before, Full Nelson both helped define what I was beginning to care for, and helped steer my choices.  It remains a favorite to today, and as Virginia grows in craft beer credibility, is one of our most solid gold star beers.  Full Nelson combines ample grapefruit-rind bite and pine flavors, along with a slightly sweet delivery and rounded out mouthfeel to make for a kind of beer that often gets overlooked these days – something not too extreme, but with plenty of flavor.  If you perhaps haven’t tasted it yet, it’s fairly easy to find.  Better yet, if you happen to be craving a road trip soon, jump in the car and head to Nelson County and taste some fresh.

Looking forward:   Smartmouth Brewing’s Alter Ego Saison

In the interest of full disclosure, I have yet to sample this beer, so go ahead and tell me that I’m going out on a limb here.  But I have a feeling I’m not.  At the very least, there’s something to be said for a brewery that opens up, as Smartmouth did in late 2012, with three beer offerings, and one is a Saison.  With distribution that currently, and understandably, only makes the rounds in the Portsmouth, Norfolk, Suffolk, Williamsburg and the like, it may take a short while to get a taste of this one – but comments on the two sites ratebeer.com and beeradvocate.com have folks pretty impressed.  Fruity, citrusy, grassy, dry, slightly peppery all are common adjectives – a touch of funkiness is even noted.

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